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WHAT IS FAST FASHION?
The phrase “fast fashion” has become a phrase used often in the fashion industry, but what actually is it? Leaving behind the fast fashion era and moving into a more sustainable industry will not be easy so we need to understand what exactly we are leaving behind. Some proposed definitions of fast fashion are:
“Fast fashion is the term used to describe clothing designs that move quickly from the catwalk to stores to meet new trends. The collections are often based on designs presented at Fashion Week events. Fast fashion allows mainstream consumers to purchase trendy clothing at an affordable price.” Investopedia.
“Fast fashion can be defined as cheap, trendy clothing, that samples ideas from the catwalk or celebrity culture and turns them into garments in high street stores at breakneck speed to meet consumer demand.” Good On You
Understanding these definitions is one thing but fast fashion is so much more than its literal meaning. Shopping for clothes used to be something we did when the season changed four times a year. Designers worked for months before releasing the next collection. The Industrial Revolution paved the way for the fashion we know today. More and more people became fashion conscious and started to buy clothes for style rather than necessity. It got to the point of no return as the demand for new styles rose. And about 20 years ago, everything changed. Clothes were cheaper, trend cycles started to speed up, and shopping became something you do for fun. Enter the era of fast fashion and the rise of the global chains that dominate our streets of today. For the consumer, this sounds perfect. Everything is cheaper and there are new things almost every week. But what is the truth behind the clothes that we wear?
WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF FAST FASHION?
From its impact on the environment, the garment workers, and even the consumers, its mark is hard to ignore. The production process is where the harm begins. Claimed by, World Resources Institute, factories dump poisonous wastewater into rivers and pump out millions of tons of greenhouse gases, only to make clothing that ends up in landfills, oceans, or burned into our atmosphere, increasing CO2 emissions. After all, the fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries on our planet. Being able to sell clothes at low prices means the fabric also has to be very cheap. Now, polyester is what almost all of our closets consist of, making it one of the most popular fabrics. And yes, it is cheap but it is also derived from fossil fuels, contributes to global warming, and can shed microfibers that add to the rising levels of plastic in our oceans when it’s put through the wash. Most fast fashion brands mass produce, however not every single garment is sold and the extra ones contribute to the waste. According to The Guardian, in Australia, 501 million kilos of unwanted clothing ends up in landfill every year. Aside from the environmental cost, there is a human cost as well.
Seven years ago, the Rana Plaza building in Dhaka, Bangladesh collapsed. It housed five garment factories and 5,000 workers, mostly young women. The lack of attention to its deteriorating infrastructure resulted in the deaths of at least 1,132 workers and injured more than 2,500. Unfortunately, this is only one story, one example of how garment workers have been denied attention to their safety. Deep into the supply chain, farmers are exposed to toxic chemicals which leads to catastrophic impacts on their physical and mental health. Low cost of production doesn’t only let the consumer buy at affordable prices but it also lets the garment factory workers be exploited. H&M is known to be one of the founding fathers of fast fashion. Its main suppliers have located in Bangladesh. As stated in War On Want, the average garment worker in Bangladesh, makes 3,000 takas a month which are around $35 USD. This is under the minimum wage of 5,000 takas, calculating to be around $60 USD. The minimum wage in Bangladesh merely suffices for shelter, food, and education for the workers, so imagine what they have access to when they are paid under the minimum wage.
Surprisingly, fast fashion also has an impact on consumers. A big problem of what's in our closet is that it gets moved to the garbage almost as fast as it is produced. This encourages the “throw-away” culture Consumers feel the need to stay on top of the trend and dispose of anything that is not considered “trendy.” This creates a constant craving for needing new clothes.
BECOMING CONSCIOUS & THE RISE OF “SLOW FASHION”
Just how people started to become fashion-conscious during the industrial revolution, more and more people have started to become more conscious of what they wear and where it truly comes from. Brands have started to produce more sustainably and ethically. According to Forbes, in 2019 the third-largest apparel brand was Inditex, “the Spanish fast-fashion giant that owns Zara.” That same year, the owner of Zara announced that by 2025 they plan for their fabric to be 100% sustainable. H&M is also known to be one of the world's biggest fast-fashion chains, and they have put in the effort to become more transparent with their customers. They released H&M Conscious in 2012 which is a collection that focuses on producing sustainable and ethical apparel. The Fashion Transparency Index by Fashion Revolution evaluates how transparent the 250 largest global brands and retailers are on a range of social and environmental sustainability issues. In 2020, H&M became the highest scoring brand. However, even their continuous efforts can't stop the waste it produces yearly. Aside from the increase in consciousness, “slow fashion” has also begun to rise. Good On You defines slow fashion as an “awareness and approach to fashion, which considers the processes and resources required to make clothing, particularly focusing on sustainability. It involves buying better-quality garments that will last for longer and values fair treatment of people, animals, and the planet.” The Rana Plaza tragedy exposed to the world the true conditions of the workers that made their clothes. Because of it, sustainable and ethical brands started to pop up. ATTIRE THE STUDIO is a company that makes sure that everything they create and produce is 100% sustainable and ethical, from the thread of the fabric to their packaging. The designer, Carmela Osorio Lugo, is the head of design for the company. She was born and raised in Venezuela and her work is truly inspiring.
WHAT CAN WE DO?
Starting off, supporting brands that are sustainable, ethical, and 100% transparent with their consumers. This will reduce your contribution to fast fashion brands. For a more affordable price, shopping second hand is also a sustainable option. Not only is buying pre-owned items that are good quality and better for your wallet, but also for the environment. One of the most important things you can do is not throw away your old clothes. This will only add to the landfills and it won’t do the environment any good. If everyone contributes, together we can stop the rise of fast fashion and move into a more sustainable era.
MORE INFORMATION:
If you would like to learn more about the raw truth behind your clothing and the fast fashion industry, watch the documentary “The True Cost,” which uncovers the truth on who really pays the price for our clothing.
Clean Clothes Campaign is a global network focused on improving working conditions and empowering workers in the global garment and sportswear industries. If you would like to support this campaign, donate here.
Fashion Revolution is working to change the way that our clothing is produced, sourced, and consumed. They are pushing for greater transparency in the fashion supply chain through social media outreach, investigative research, innovative events, and inspiring, informative content. If you would like to support the global movement, donate here.
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